Fashion notes:
Interestingly enough, Prete & Bruno was gearing towards something that was very similar to Reem Acra - the whole extravagant dressing for day to evening. Except the dup stuck to simplicity when designing their dresses. The inspiration was taken from historical beauties like Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly, who defined sophistication. Also, the models had a very Audrey Hepburn feel to them in their black dresses and Golightly's signature beehive up-do. The show was all about glamour and elegance.
Key looks:
Classic black with a touch of emerald green and gold, tweed jackets and pencil skirts to sequined and pleated gowns
Silhouettes:
Channeling the ladylike silhouettes - high waistline, flowing feminine gowns
Fashion Notes
Carlos Miele's latest collection was inspired by the pampas of his native Brazil. While many designers this season have been showing hats, Miele topped off his look with "gauchas," which are traditionally found in the Rio Grande do Sul. Miele was able to combine pieces that are very rural and make them appropriate for an urban environment.
Key looks
Eveningwear consisting of ruffled gowns that flowed as light as air along the runway
Textiles
Although this may be a heavy winter look the fabrics never seemed so heavy as to overwhelm the outfit. Light wool ponchos and light silk chiffon equally flowed down the runway. Even a full fur poncho had nice movement.
Silhouettes
Urban cowgirl for day and traditional Brazilian princess for after dark...
Fashion Notes
Mara Hoffman is bringing back urban cowgirl in a new way, without beating the proverbially dead horse. It can be difficult to make western-inspired wear work in the city, but Hoffman’s collection of Navajo and tribal inspired lightweight prints paired with exotic headscarves worn under hats certainly made a statement.
Key Looks
A body-conscious tribal print dress with a strategic triangle cutout, as well as a black and gray wool sweater that struck the perfect balance between a cape and parka.
Silhouettes
Hoffman showed a lot of flouncy maxi dresses and skirts, with some layered nicely under wool knits. She took a risk by accenting many of her looks with a combination of headscarves and hats, although this tended to overwhelm many of the looks.
Textiles
We were surprised to see so many chiffon and silk flowing maxi dresses and skirts in western and tribal inspired prints, although many in black and white had nice pops of color. Her chunky wool knits were hit or miss depending on the print, and many were too bulky for anyone over a size two to wear successfully.
Overall Impression
We were confused by the plethora of lightweight maxi skirts and dresses, especially the more colorful western-style prints reminiscent of a resort collection. Hoffman left us yearning for more winter-appropriate wear, and we wish she left the overplayed Navajo and tribal themes back a few seasons ago....
Fashion Notes
Katya Leonovitch bested her presentation from last season by staying true to her punk-chic designs. Her more subdued styling made this season’s looks more wearable despite walking the fine line between structured and overworked.
Key Look
Tailored high neck leather dresses with cutouts and pleat detailing stole the show along with her bustier-style dresses incorporating metallic ruching and snakeskin print. Her black and white wool “toothed” outwear was a definite unique standout.
Silhouettes
Leonovitch wavered between highly architectural designs and more romantic ruffles, but a common theme was her strategically placed cutouts.
Textiles
Metallic ruched elements in her dresses and leggings evoked a very Nicole Miller Collection vibe, but she incorporated some lux leather and wool elements as well. Her ruffled watercolor chiffon numbers added vibrant colors to the collection.
Overall Impression
Leonovitch continues to work towards a more wearable avant-garde line incorporating some covetable downtown-chic outerwear. Her structured dresses are definitely her strong point, although her watercolor ensembles were overly worked and took away from the cohesiveness of the collection....
Fashion Notes:
Jill Stuart fans will not be disappointed by the designers Fall 2012 collection. Although the look was darker than usual, Jill Stuart was still able to communicate a sexy feminine look.
Key Looks:
Our favorite ensembles included a series of dresses accented with a light lace
Textiles:
Silk prints, light embroideries, light lace and heavier brocades
Silhouettes:
The highlights of the collection included, strong shoulders and dark floral motifs paired with vampy patent platform boots
Scene:
Giants wide receiver Ramses Barden, Nikki Reede, Olivia Palermo, Kelly Bensimon...
Fashion Notes:
The designer says that her newest collection was inspired by the documentary, "A long Way Around," which is about a journey from Europe to Mongolia on a motorcycle. The designer imagined a girl with moxey and created her journey wardrobe.
Key Looks:
Jewel-tone brocade biker jackets and multi-colored sequined pants and jewel tone biker jackets kept kept the energy level high.
Textiles:
We loved the use of fur, the shiny nylons, dip-dyed knits and garbled knits. Rebecca Minkoff fans are always partial to the two-ply outerwear and t-shirts, which are always a cornerstone of her collections.
Silhouettes:
Rebecca Minkoff's signature look included oversize blazers with dropped shoulders
Scene:
Before any model hit the runway, hip-hop star, Theophilus London loosened up the crowed with his hit, "I Stand Alone." London was wearing toe studded leather and lots of bling as he grinded up and down the catwalk.
The front row was littered with bold-types, like Nikki Reed and husband Paul Macdonald, Abigail Breslin Olivia Palermo, Kristin Chenoweth and Sami Gayle....
Fashion Notes:
This season, Rebecca Taylor deviated from her normal sweet girly style and opted to connect with an edgier gal from the LES. Most of the looks were inspiring but other times the pairings looked like a novice style blogger. We are happy to see that Rebecca Taylor has found a new voice and expect that she will continue to make strides towards perfecting this new look.
Key Looks:
Sweaters and coats with digital prints, paired with leggings and furry low boots
Textiles
A variety of textures were used to create a layered look that remained light and romantic. Angora, ponte knits, chiffon and shearling-- for extra warmth.
Silhouettes:
We saw use of a variety of fabrics that were tailored into easy, modern silhouettes that came in a range of dark wintry colors.
Scene:
Zoe Kravitz, Olivia Palermo and Louise Roe and a host of other cool gals turned out big to support the designer....
Fashion Notes
Nicholas Kunz likes layers. This season, the designer is piling it on the urban cowboy. The Tuscon tradition was spiced up with a bit of Williamsburg style. Drapy cardigans were paired with long shearling coats and jackets. Sometimes it was hard to tell where one garment began and the other ended in this mostly graphite colored collection.
Key looks
Long shearling-esq coats mixed with faux fur, canvas, leather and knits. We especially loved the combination of over-the-knee boots with stockings peaking out.
Textiles
Leather, fur, canvas, knits, fringe and sequins mixed together in a variety of looks
Silhouettes
All of Nickolas K's looks were topped with a not-so-subtle over sized cowboy hat to drive home the fresh from the Southwest message. This look is supposed to seem effortless but we all know how hard it is to get all these layers right. In contrast, the prairie dresses are a simple way to achieve the down on the range style....