By ManhattanMataHari

Fashion Notes
Katya Leonovitch bested her presentation from last season by staying true to her punk-chic designs. Her more subdued styling made this season’s looks more wearable despite walking the fine line between structured and overworked.

Key Look
Tailored high neck leather dresses with cutouts and pleat detailing stole the show along with her bustier-style dresses incorporating metallic ruching and snakeskin print. Her black and white wool “toothed” outwear was a definite unique standout.

Silhouettes
Leonovitch wavered between highly architectural designs and more romantic ruffles, but a common theme was her strategically placed cutouts.

Textiles
Metallic ruched elements in her dresses and leggings evoked a very Nicole Miller Collection vibe, but she incorporated some lux leather and wool elements as well. Her ruffled watercolor chiffon numbers added vibrant colors to the collection.

Overall Impression
Leonovitch continues to work towards a more wearable avant-garde line incorporating some covetable downtown-chic outerwear. Her structured dresses are definitely her strong point, although her watercolor ensembles were overly worked and took away from the cohesiveness of the collection.

Fashion Notes:
Jill Stuart fans will not be disappointed by the designers Fall 2012 collection. Although the look was darker than usual, Jill Stuart was still able to communicate a sexy feminine look.

Key Looks:
Our favorite ensembles included a series of dresses accented with a light lace

Textiles:
Silk prints, light embroideries, light lace and heavier brocades

Silhouettes:
The highlights of the collection included, strong shoulders and dark floral motifs paired with vampy patent platform boots


Scene:
Giants wide receiver Ramses Barden, Nikki Reede, Olivia Palermo, Kelly Bensimon

Fashion Notes:
The designer says that her newest collection was inspired by the documentary, “A long Way Around,” which is about a journey from Europe to Mongolia on a motorcycle. The designer imagined a girl with moxey and created her journey wardrobe.

Key Looks:
Jewel-tone brocade biker jackets and multi-colored sequined pants and jewel tone biker jackets kept kept the energy level high.

Textiles:
We loved the use of fur, the shiny nylons, dip-dyed knits and garbled knits. Rebecca Minkoff fans are always partial to the two-ply outerwear and t-shirts, which are always a cornerstone of her collections.

Silhouettes:
Rebecca Minkoff’s signature look included oversize blazers with dropped shoulders

Scene:
Before any model hit the runway, hip-hop star, Theophilus London loosened up the crowed with his hit, “I Stand Alone.” London was wearing toe studded leather and lots of bling as he grinded up and down the catwalk.
The front row was littered with bold-types, like Nikki Reed and husband Paul Macdonald, Abigail Breslin Olivia Palermo, Kristin Chenoweth and Sami Gayle.

Fashion Notes:
This season, Rebecca Taylor deviated from her normal sweet girly style and opted to connect with an edgier gal from the LES. Most of the looks were inspiring but other times the pairings looked like a novice style blogger. We are happy to see that Rebecca Taylor has found a new voice and expect that she will continue to make strides towards perfecting this new look.

Key Looks:
Sweaters and coats with digital prints, paired with leggings and furry low boots

Textiles
A variety of textures were used to create a layered look that remained light and romantic. Angora, ponte knits, chiffon and shearling– for extra warmth.

Silhouettes:
We saw use of a variety of fabrics that were tailored into easy, modern silhouettes that came in a range of dark wintry colors.

Scene:
Zoe Kravitz, Olivia Palermo and Louise Roe and a host of other cool gals turned out big to support the designer.

Fashion Notes
Nicholas Kunz likes layers. This season, the designer is piling it on the urban cowboy. The Tuscon tradition was spiced up with a bit of Williamsburg style. Drapy cardigans were paired with long shearling coats and jackets. Sometimes it was hard to tell where one garment began and the other ended in this mostly graphite colored collection.

Image: Racked

Key looks
Long shearling-esq coats mixed with faux fur, canvas, leather and knits. We especially loved the combination of over-the-knee boots with stockings peaking out.

Textiles
Leather, fur, canvas, knits, fringe and sequins mixed together in a variety of looks

Silhouettes
All of Nickolas K’s looks were topped with a not-so-subtle over sized cowboy hat to drive home the fresh from the Southwest message. This look is supposed to seem effortless but we all know how hard it is to get all these layers right.  In contrast, the prairie dresses are a simple way to achieve the down on the range style.

Fashion Notes 
Monika Chiang may have not be an old master of design but you can easily see that she has a taste for the old Italian masters. For Fall 2012, Monika showed a collection that seems to have been inspired by the strong tailoring of Gucci with a twist of Tom Ford. The big difference, however, is that Monika’s designs retail for a fraction of European imports.

Key Look
A felt coat with an over sized zipper and bone colored leather gloves

Silhouettes 
The majority of the looks were long and sleek. There was no slouch or heavy drapy hers. Most of the bulk was found in the shoes or bags.

Textiles
Lots of lux: leather, fur and high gage knits

Overall impression
The fashion presentation emphasized the clothing but we have a feeling that customers will be strongly draw to the accessories. Spiked high top sneakers, crazy high platforms heels and sleek bags at mid-range designer prices are always a winning combination.